Monday, June 13, 2011

Headed Home

Now it is just a waiting game. Bags are packed, apartment is cleaned out, and my 10 months here have come to an end. There are only a few more hours of airport waiting before I'm flying back to the States. I have a feeling of satisfaction and contentment, knowing that I have done my very best to live this time abroad in the best way that I know how, that has the most meaning for me, and I am ready to move to the next great adventure. But for now, I must play the waiting game.

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Rotterdam, Netherlands

Rotterdam was the next stop on the Netherlands tour. The city was hit hard in WWII, and most of the buildings are post-1945. Architecture is one of the biggest reasons why people visit this city, and I was no exception. 
Erasmus Bridge, Rotterdam
My hostel was in the Cube Houses, an urban village designed by Piet Blom in the late 1970s. The complex itself serves as a pedestrian bridge over a major traffic artery, and the architect was commissioned to "furnish" this bridge. Blom's idea was to create "a safe oasis where several functions could take place: small scale business, shops, a school and a children's playground downstairs, living in the cubehouses upstairs." This "village within a town" was an archetictural experiment- a mixed use development that provides various functions for the residents (housing, good views, access to products and services closeby) and for the members of the external community (the pedestrian bridge). Right up my alley!

Inside the Cube House
Inside the Cube House
Rotterdam's other HUGE claim to fame is it's port. Up until 2005, the Port of Rotterdam was the biggest port in the entire world. It is the gateway to the European market and facilitates 430 million tons of cargo annually. The Maritime Museum has an exhibition called Mainport Live- Feel the Rhythm of Rotterdam Port.
I had been spending so much time in cities that my eyes were starting to get used to all that concrete. That is not a good thing. Something green, please! I grabbed the daypack and headed (via Water taxi, very cool, highly recommended) to Kinderdijk, a Dutch village near to UNESCO-recognized windmills, preserved since the 1700s.
It is absolutely remarkable what the Dutch have done in regards to water management in their country. The land mass of the Netherlands is to a great degree artificial, and as the folks over at Lonely Planet report "The efforts of the Dutch to create new land- which basically equates to reclaiming it from the encroaching sea- are almost super human...In total, an astounding 20% of the country is reclaimed land." What were once tidal flats, estuaries and marshlands are now agricultural land. Windmills original purpose was to pump water to drain the land for this agriculture. The classic polder scene (strips of farmland separated by canals) makes up 60% of the Netherlands landscape and Kinderdijk was a great example.


Saturday, June 11, 2011

Adventure To Belgium

photo courtesy of geographicguide.net

After the first part of my Netherlands trip, I was able to make a short side trip down to Belgium to visit some family friends, Lori and Brad and their incredible kiddos. On the way down, I took a lunch break in Brussels and had a couple hours to wander and see what all the fuss is about. I only saw a tiny portion of the massive city, which carries the title of the de-facto capital Belgium and the European Union. All of the pictures below were taken within walking distance of the Central Station.


Belgian Flag and EU Flag flanking a building

I arrived in Mons in the evening and quickly got to playing in the backyard! It was really great to be part of a family setting again, and there is nothing quite like a good ol' backyard baseball game with charming littles!
Train station mural in Mons
Saturday's schedule was packed, and we wasted no time. First stop was a visit to the North Sea (read: the beach)!


Despite the wind, we all had a blast sticking our toes in the surf, discovering neat shells and romping around in the warm sand. The consensus on the beach trip: Next time, sand shovels and swim suits will be included.
Following the beach visit, we headed in to Bruges, yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Isn't it remarkable that I keep finding myself in these beautiful, historic, preserved, admired places? We enjoyed a delectable lunch of mussels and frites, finished up with gelato, and topped it all off later in the day with an authentic waffle. When in Belgium, right? Let's not forget the The Chocolate Line, a specialty chocolate shop that offers both traditional Belgian chocolates and "exotic" versions, like wasabi, earl grey, or my (surprising) favorite, fried onion. I know, it doesn't sound good, you just have to trust me.

On my final day, the whole fam packed up for the Sunday flower market in downtown Mons. The town is quite close to the border with France, and French is the main language spoken this far south in Belgium. Dutch is the predominant language further north, and there is considerable cultural tensions between the two regions. And don't forget the German speakers either! It appears that things are not all butterflies and flowers in terms of national politics or cultural relations in Belgium, but for that Sunday morning, everyone was focused on the flowers, and the mood was light. 

 For my upcoming travels, I managed to give a lucky head-rub to the little monkey of Mons.
We spent the rest of the afternoon touring the Chievres Air Base and school campus where my hosts work. A big thanks goes out to Lori and Brad for opening up their family and home to me! I really appreciate it!

Bikes and Stroopwaffels- My Visit to Amsterdam & Utrecht, Netherlands

I'm back from my Netherlands trip and had a fabulous time! My first stop was Amsterdam. I immediately bought a museum pass and used it everyday. My hostel was quite close to the Van Gogh Museum as well as the Rijksmuseum, both headliners of the Amsterdam museums. The Netherlands has a rich art history and to be able to see the masters on display was a neat experience, even for a non-artsy scientist type.


  

One of the most rewarding things one can do in Amsterdam is to wander along the canals. Without intention or direction is best. There are so many secret pockets to find, bikers to observe, houseboats to yearn for, and stories being told from those cobbled streets.

Another highlight of my museum circuit was the Anne Frank Museum. The Frank family moved to Amsterdam from Germany to escape the anti-semitism of Hitler's regime when Anne was four years old. Almost ten years later, in 1942, the Frank family went into hiding above Otto Frank's office space. It was here that Anne wrote her diaries recounting life in hiding. I was able to walk through the house, from the office space downstairs, through the secret bookcase, tiptoe up the staircase, and soak in the fear and confinement that seeped into the walls of the hidden apartment. It gave me a new perspective on how lucky I am to live free of fear of persecution, and how important it is for all of us to assure that for all members of society.
Anne Frank House
The Netherlands is known as a bike-friendly country, both geographically (it is super flat) and in terms of infrastructure (tons of bike lanes and endless bike parking). My expectations were surpassed! It was almost unbelievable how many people I saw on bikes- men in business suits, women in high heels and summer dresses, moms balancing with three (3!) kiddos on her bike, crusing down the path like it was just another day, which I'm sure it was. Nothing was too big for a bike. I saw new TVs being transported via bike rack, friends hopping a ride (called "dinking," I would later learn), and more groceries than you could imagine.


One of my most memorable evenings I spent in Vondel Park, watching the residents of Amsterdam enjoy the setting sun and acres of inviting grass, sunbathing, sharing a BBQ, and of course, on cruisin' on bikes!
Other museums of note that I visited in Amsterdam include the Amsterdam Historical MuseumDutch Resistance Museum, and NEMO.

My high school friend Nikki is studying in Utrecht this semester, so after my time in Amsterdam, I jumped on a train for a fun weekend! She was a fantastic and fun host. I got all of the local secrets, especially at the Saturday morning market, where I indulged in too much dip and tasted my first stroopwaffel, a fantastic Dutch secret treat. Just the ingredients list will make your mouth water. Look 'em up.
We stumbled across Museum Speelklok, advertised as "The Most Cheerful Museum in the Netherlands." We would have to concur.The museum really does have it all, from musical clocks to street organs.
The cherry on top was Michel Jackson's "Thriller" played on the organ at the end of this room:
Afterwards, we strolled through the cozy streets of Utrecht, passing by the Domkerk (Dom Church) and wandering along the canals. I don't think I'll ever get tired of that!

A huge thanks to Nikki and Austin for showing me the sights and giving me a great taste of student life in Holland while I was visiting Utrecht!

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Please Hold...

My time in the Netherlands is going great- sun, sun and more sun- too many museums to count- windmills and cheese and stroopwaffels and old friends to show me the sights- not much to complain about here! Today I depart for Belgium, just a quick hop away really (travelling between countries here is a shorter trip than most daily work commutes in Teton County!) and I have a scenic train ride to get me there. Stay tuned for photos(!) and real recaps- they will be coming atcha in a few more days. Happy June and I hope the weather is as fabulous wherever you are as it is here!

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

17th of May!

The 17th of May is the Norwegian Constitution Day, also refered to as National Day. It is celebrated throughout the country, and Oslo has its own grand celebration. I was thrilled to take part in the festivities! 
My day started early, before the parade along Karl Johan Gate, the main street through downtown Oslo that leads up to the royal palace. I wanted to get downtown before the masses so that I could ensure a good standing place along the parade route. The thing that struck me most while I was walking through central Oslo were the smart dressers all around me! Men and women alike were donned the traditional Norwegian outfits, called bunad. Those who were not in their traditional costume were dressed to the nines, in full suits or gorgeous dresses and heels. It was a very classy event, and I was grossly underdressed. This ain't no 4th of July...

Woman in a traditional bunad
Crown Prince Haakon and his family, May 17 (photo courtesy of nrk.no)
May 17 is also referred to as Barnas Dag, or Children's Day. It was quite clear why when the parade began. Schools from all over Oslo (103 in all!) marched down Karl Johan, many with bands or drill teams, and all with Norwegian flags and smiles.

Russ
Mayor Fabian Stang leading the parade
The weather held and a good time was had by all. Kids ate as much ice cream and polser (hot dogs) as possible, the Russ partied hard for their last time, and the royals resumed their spot to wave from the balcony of the royal palace, just like they have done for more than 100 years. I was so pleased to take part in the May 17 celebrations, especially in the capital city. 
Gratulerer med dagen!

Russ Throughout the Ages

photo courtesy of nrk.no
In my post about this year's Russ celebrations, I asked the question: Since the parents and grandparents of the current Russ also partook in the festivities when they graduated high school, is there a bit of slack for the crazy antics of the recent graduates? This got me wondering what those past generations of Russ were like.
The Norwegian Broadcasting Network (NRK) put together a picture album of Russ throughout the ages. It's interesting to see the transition of dress and cars, and while I am sure they are not all the same dares as today, it is great to see that some are, like kissing a policeman! Although this is purely speculation, I'm guessing that the dare of giving a flower to a man in a suit and telling him to relax was born in the seventies!
Check out the photos and reminisce about your graduation era, whenever that may have been...

Monday, May 16, 2011

Warning- "Russ" Abound

Spring is in full swing here in Norway. The blooming tulips on campus and the evening sun that lingers far into the night are proof, but the real test of the changing season comes in red overalls. Let's talk about the RUSS.

Russfeiring, or Russ celebration, is an annual tradition of Norwegian high school seniors right before graduation. The celebrations usually start on May 1 and end on May 17, the Norwegian Constitution Day. The weeks of celebration is a time to gather with friends for the last time before you graduate and leave for university. This is a tradition that has been observed since the 1700s when students had to travel to Denmark to attend university. Of course, the tradition looks quite different today!


OUTFIT:
Russ are easy to spot thanks to their attire. The typical russ can be seen in red or blue overalls, which are to go unwashed during the entire russfeiring.
BUSSES: To get around, russ often have a bus shared by friends. In recent years, elaborate busses, with decorated interiors, sound systems, and fancy paint jobs have become a status symbol among the russ, and the graduates may save all year long to contribute to the buss. Some even average 3-5,000 USD per member!
COMMERCIAL PRESENCE: Over the years, russ has created a huge industry that brings in millions of dollars on merchandise, clothing, and transportation. Last year, merchandise distributer Russeservice earned 43 million NOK in sales (almost 8 million US dollars), and they expect the 2011 sales to be even higher. A group of girls in Oslo have been planning their own russ celebrations "since we started in the first class of high school" and they aren't holding back at all!

TRADITIONS:
The 'russekort' is a business card of sorts. A typical russekort has a picture, name, telephone number, school, and slogan. Most russ try to put as little factual information on the card as possible. Although these cards are traded between fellow russ, the most excited to receive them are school children! They are so eager to collect them, running up to russ on the subway, on the street, in the parking lot, wherever the russ may gather. Here is one that I found on the ground near my apartment building:

 The dares are what russ are arguably best know for. Each year, a list of tasks is released. Participants are awarded knots on their caps once they complete a dare. These range from harmless pranks (eating a Big Mac in two bites, eat lunch in your underwear in a cafe) to dangerous escapades (drinking a bottle of wine in 20 minutes, having sex with 17 partners).

RITE OF PASSAGE
Social Anthropologist Allan Sande thinks that there is something deeper than a three-week teenage binge:
-Russ deals with coming to grips with taboos like sex and intoxication.
-It is a form of ritualized play, very organized and regulated.
-It signifies a "transitional period when the usual rules and restrictions that govern a teenager's life are forgotten."

SAFETY:
Most russ are old enough to legally buy booze (18 years of age in Norway) and alcohol plays a central role in the russ celebrations. Per-Ivar Iverson, Operations Leader of the Asker og Baerum Police District said "Experience shows us that russ season leads to lots of complaints and reports in to us. We don't want to be negative, though, and we want the russ to have fun." There have been many reports of sexual abuse and fights in the past years of russ, which the alcoholic portion of the festivities seem to exacerbate.

TRADITION OR TRAGEDY?
While the russ tradition is certainly engrained in Norwegian society, some claim that the celebrations are a tragedy and only hurt the youth of Norway. Is it another reason for the "Kids These Days" rant? Or, since the parents and grandparents of the current russ class also partook in the celebrations, is there a bit more slack? Should we just let 'em have their fun? "Boys will be boys?"

So on the eve of the 17th of May, the Russ are soaking in the last night of their drunken debauchery and savoring the last moments of their childhoods. Here's to hoping the hangover doesn't get in the way of tomorrow's flag waving and parades!

ADDITIONAL LINKS:
The TV show Alt for Norge did an episode that attempts to capture the wild russ experience from a unique, reality TV show perspective.